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The
Garhwal region contains some of the finest mountains
in the Himalaya and is highly accessible. This spectacular
trek takes you deep into the Central Himalaya. It is
a “Sadhu” Trail which the devotees use to
cross over from Gangotri to Kedarnath. This is one of
the very few Sadhu trails left in the Himalaya. Dramatic
canyons, majestic mountains, cascading waterfalls, pine
and birch trees, together with the holy waters of India’s
most sacred river make the Source of the Ganges trek
a feast for the soul and senses. The views of Mount
Shivling and the Bhagirathi range in the Garhwal Himalaya
are unforgettable.
You start with an acclimatization trek before arriving
at Gangotri to embark on the Source of the Ganges trek
which ascends to 14,294ft/4463m at Tapovan. This acclimatization
walk is a unique, short Himalayan trek with the interesting
objective of passing through the foothills and actual
hill villages where the world-famous ‘Man-Eating
Leopard of Rudraprayag’ spread terror among the
local people. The route was ‘recced’ in
2000 by our Managing Director, Steve Berry. The scenery
is lovely, giving commanding views of the main peaks
of the Garhwal Himalaya and taking you through lush
terraced hills, pristine forests and many villages.
The weather at this time of year is typically warm and
sunny, clear blue skies being the norm.
We have designed this tour to give you a comprehensive
Indian experience – you will stay in one of Delhi’s
top hotels, take an Indian train journey across the
plains, drive on twisting mountains roads through the
Garhwal foothills, visit holy ghats, ashrams and temples
in Rishikesh and Haridwar, trek to a height of 14,294ft/4463m,
and watch the sunrise on the dramatic Garhwal Himalayan
giants such as Shivling (20,956ft/6543m) and Bhagirathi
I, II and III (21,958ft/6856m, 20,857ft/6512m, and 20,671ft/6454m
respectively). |
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DAY
1: ARRIVE DELHI, DAY AT LEISURE.
You will be met on arrival and transferred to your hotel.
A chance then to sample the heat, dust and atmosphere
of India's capital city. Time is your own to do your
own thing, any shopping before the trek, or perhaps
hustle up taxis to have a look around the city. A good
place to start is Old Delhi, as here you see India in
the raw. Crowded bazaars, shops selling everything under
the sun and people on every form of transport imaginable
and from every part of the sub-continent. Overnight
stay at hotel Pouls Court.
DAY 2: SHATABDI EXPRESS
TRAIN TO HARIDWAR, DRIVE TO RISHIKESH.
(Approximately 1 hour drive time) You transfer early
morning by taxi to board the 7:00am Shatabdi Express
to Haridwar, one of the seven holy cities of Hinduism.
The train journey takes 5 hours, 40 minutes. Legend
has it that Vishnu's footprint was found on the bank
of the holy river, giving it its sanctity. Situated
at the base of the Siwalik Hills, Haridwar is where
the River Ganga (Ganges) passes through its last gorge
and begins a 2,000km journey across the plains of India
to the Bay of Bengal. Haridwar is a very old town and
was mentioned by the Chinese traveller, Hiuen Tsang.
The wealth of the town attracted the attention of Timur
the Great, more commonly known as Tamerlane, who sacked
it in 1399.
After arrival at Hardiwar Station (12:40pm) you will
be met and first visit the town's 'steps' on the banks
of the Ganges. Haridwar is the gateway of pilgrimage
to Badrinath, Kedernath, Gangotri and Yamunotri, which
lie further up in the mountains. Every twelve years,
when Venus and Jupiter coincide with Aquarius and the
Sun and Moon are in Aries and Sagittarius respectively,
there takes place an event unlike any other in the world.
This is the 'Khumbh' Mela, when more than a million
Hindu pilgrims gather on the banks of the Ganges to
bathe in its holy waters. At more normal times there
is still a great deal of activity and you will see Sadhus,
pilgrims, hawkers, snake charmers and people bathing
in the river, some diving for coins and others praying.
Incense pervades the air and you are suddenly immersed
in the experience that is India.
You then drive on to Rishikesh (25kms) where again there
should be some time to cross the Laxman Jhoola (a large
suspension bridge) to visit the 13-storey temple on
the other side and visit perhaps Triveni Ghat, Bharat
Temple and/or the place Lord Rama bathed at Rishikund.
This small town is the ancient roadhead for all pilgrim
traffic and in the season is hectic with groups of villagers
from all over India clamouring for seats on the buses
to the four hill shrines. The northern part of the town
is called Muni-ki-Reti and refers to the silver shores
of the river where the rishis of old meditated. Across
the Ganga, large, sprawling but well-maintained ashrams
teach yoga and publish books on the scriptures. You
stay overnight at the Hotel Natraj.
DAY 3: DRIVE VIA SRINAGAR
TO GULTIR (2,116ft/645m) AND TREK TO KOTHKI SAM (2,083ft/635m).
(Approximately 2 hours' drive time, 1 hour trekking).
One hour's drive from Srinagar look out for Gulab Bari,
3km before Rudraprayag. This is the place where Jim
Corbett made his famous 'Shot in the dark' and killed
the Man-Eating Leopard of Rudraprayag. Here there is
a commemorative plaque on the exact spot below the tree
where he had his platform. Accounts differ but it is
believed the leopard had killed upwards of 125 people
before Jim Corbett's single shot put paid to its reign
of terror. He stayed on his tree platform until it was
light for fear he had only wounded the animal that locals
believed was an 'evil spirit'. Nearby is the 'Pundit's
House' and if he is at home you may meet Totaram, the
grandson of the pundit, who was Corbett's friend. He
will show you a photo of his grandfather and Corbett,
and a copy of Corbett's book describing the hunt. The
road through Rudraprayag itself is noisy and congested
and the staff will probably stop to buy fresh vegetables.
Further down the road you will see your first views
of snow-capped peaks framed in the distance. Not far
from here to Gultir.
Gultir village is situated on the left bank of the Alakananda
River. You cross the river over a suspension bridge
and commence the trek from the right bank. The trail
is flat and easy along the banks of the Alakananda River.
There is a small Hindu temple above the campsite. Time
permitting, you can walk up to the village of Kothki
and then descend to the river camp. The word 'Sam' means
'playground' or 'festival place'. This is where village
festivals are occasionally held. There is a small pumping
station nearby which gives water supply to the village.
Camp overnight.
DAY 4 : TREK TO ISHALA (4,593ft/1,400m).
5-6 hours.
The trail is at first level by the river, then you climb
through fields and trees to Chimka. From here the 'short
cut' goes very steeply up to Ishala but is very tough
and the longer route is much more interesting. The 'long
route' begins by descending very slightly then on the
level for some time passing a small hamlet below. The
river is now some way below. Then begins an easy climb
to Kodadkhal (2,960ft/925m). Before it is reached there
is a huge Pipal tree next to a water supply. The tree
is a tangle of creepers and roots dropping from branches.
At Kodadkhal there is a red stone memorial to some 'Freedom
Fighters' contained in a walled enclosure. There is
a post office here. After Kodadkhal the path pulls steadily
up through a fir forest to reach a ridge from where
you can see over and down into the next valley. Then
on up the ridge until eventually Ishala is seen in profile.
Almost bare dun-coloured mountain tops rise beyond and
you can see the 'pass' up there with a village sprawling
on the west of the village. You stop at Ishala where
camp is set in old terraced fields. At Ishala you start
to see orange trees: one of the main crops in the area.
Camp overnight.
DAY 5 : TREK TO AAGAR (6,555ft/1,998m).
4-5 hours.
Initially it is quite a stiff pull for an hour or so
to reach the 'pass', mainly through forest with many
pretty birds. You come to the crest of the ridge and
now there are views of big peaks to the north, Chaukhamba
(23,418ft/7,138m), just peeping over the ridge in front
of us. You are now at the village of Kandi, 5,508ft/1,679m.
Again lots of orange trees. The next village is clearly
seen on the next ridge and doesn't look too far. You
contour around past terraced fields to come up to the
village astride the ridge, Jagtoli (5,310ft/1,771m).
There are great views from here west to Trisul, 23,389ft/7,066m,
and Dunagiri, 23,182ft/7,066m. Locals say the big massif
is Nanda Devi but it is really hidden behind Trisul.
Just as you enter the village there is a silver smith
with a small shop. A small Hindu shrine occupies a hillock
behind the houses and from here the views are excellent.
Then you pass through the school ground down below the
village.This is an Inter school with 438 students. You
are now so high that range after range of foothills
march into the distance and the views down the valleys
with their terraced fields and forests are lovely. Lots
of eagles today. From where you are you can see the
next village of Aagar. You walk up the slope behind
the playing field; through some small stone gulleys,
up a steep mud track to gain a fine stone paved path
to the village. Camp overnight just beyond the village.
DAY 6: TREK TO GIMTOLI (6,391ft/1,948m), CONTINUE TO
FOREST CAMP (5,249ft/1,600m).
4-5 hours trekking. Up to Aagar Pass (6,624ft/2,019m)
from where there are nice views of Kedernath, 22,769ft/6,940m,
Kedar Dome and again Chaukhamba. Looking down there
is the village of Gimtoli 6,503ft/1,982m, and below
that another school ground. When you reach Gimtoli however
there is a road and it is possible to catch a local
bus to drive 6km to Kanak Churri, 7,109ft/2,167m, a
small village on the road. From the village you walk
up to Kartik Swami Temple (8,163ft/2,488m), 1 hr 5 mins
with no stops. This is a lovely walk through woods and
eventually out onto the top of an airy ridge. Another
45 mins brings you to a couple of houses for Sadhus.
The Temple itself was destroyed on 25 April 1999 by
an earthquake centred some 60 kms from here. The Temple
has now been re-built. It sits right on top of, and
at the end of the ridge, which itself is the highest
for miles around. A nice place for a picnic, with huge
eagles cruising the ridge. Returning to the road take
one of the buses back to Gintoli. From here it is a
long descent to the bottom of the valley and the village
of Suwarri, 5,335ft/1,626m, through terraced fields.
Looking at the hillside opposite you can see the path
zig-zagging up to the ridge, but instead of crossing
this ridge you will eventually contour leftwards for
20 minutes to reach another ridge crossing point in
a forest. There is a small shrine at the 'pass'. You
descend now for half an hour to a clearing in the forest,
used by the locals as a cricket pitch with obstacles,
where you camp. Two years ago our reconnaissance party
were kept awake by the sounds of a leopard nearby! Camp
overnight.
Note - it is possible to trek directly to Kartik Swami
Temple from Aagar and to the forest camp without using
the bus from Gimtoli. This does make a much longer day
and this option can be examined with your leader at
the time. The bus though is quite an interesting Indian
experience!
DAY 7 : TREK TO SODI (2,677ft/816m), DRIVE TO RUDRAPRAYAG.
Trek time 2-3 hours.
Today you trek downhill through some of the prettiest
country so far and pass through the villages of Mangu
and Bathwari. The next village is Deodar where there
is a government school. The road to Kedarnath is visible
from here. The Mandakini river can also be seen as it
flows along beside the road. Drive to Rudraprayag. Camp
overnight.
DAY 8: DRIVE TO GANGOTRI (10,170ft/3100m). Gangotri
is alive with Rishis, Sadhus, Pandas and hippy clad
westerners. Gangotri's stunning waterfalls mark the
spot where the Goddess Ganga descended from heaven in
ancient times. Shiva received the shattering impact
of the celestial torrent upon his head, and the Ganga
split into four sacred streams: Bhagirathi, Yamanu,
Mandakini and Alaknanda. Here you are rewarded for your
3 day journey with superb views of Sudarshan peak. In
the evening you visit the famous temple which serves
the devout Hindu pilgrims, and witness the daily puja.
Overnight at Tourist Guest House.
DAY 09: TREK TO CHIRBASA (11,549ft/3606m). Approx. 3-4
hours.
The walk begins with gradual ascent through pine trees,
alongside the roaring Bhagirathi river with towering
cliffs on your left hand side. Soon after you leave
Gangotri, you pass a check post for the Gangotri Conservation
Project. The money they collect from your guide on your
behalf goes towards projects such as collection of litter,
re-planting birch trees, and an awareness campaign for
trekkers on eco-sensitive tourism. Today's walk is quite
short to help with acclimatisation. Chirbasa means pine
trees. Here you have superb views of Manda peak (20,853ft/6511m),
Hanuman Tibba (17,186ft/5366m), Bhrigu Parbat (19,217ft/6000m),
Bhagirathi I, II and III (21,958ft/6856m, 20,857ft/6512m,
and 20,671ft/6454m respectively). You could well spot
herds of Bharal roaming the hillside above Chirbasa.
Overnight camp.
DAY 10 : TREK TO GAUMAUK
(3892m). Approx. 4 hours.
It takes approximately 1-2 hours to reach Bhojbasa (12,145ft/3792m)
which has an ashram, a tourist guest house and police
post. Here the majestic soaring peak of Shivling (20,956ft/6543m)
comes into view. The trek from Bhojbasa to Gaumauk is
a fairly gradual ascent. "Gau" means cow,
and "Mauk" means mouth. At Gaumauk, you can
dip your hands and toes in the revered holy water of
the Ganges, and you may well find your guide collecting
holy water here on the decent for a puja. Gangotri used
to be the source, but the glacier has receded now to
just beyond Gaumauk. Overnight camp.
DAY11:TREK TO TAPOVAN(14,294ft/4463m).(Approx.3
hours)
Although relatively short in distance, today's walk
will feel strenuous with the combined effects of the
altitude, the ascent to be gained, the glacier crossing,
and the steep, rocky terrain on the final climb to Tapovan.
You begin by trekking over boulders on your approach
to the glacier. The trail steepens noticeably as you
ascend slowly over the rocky terrain. The glacier is
covered by morraine so you do not need any technical
equipment, although a steadying trekking pole is definitely
handy. As you take your last step up the steep rocky
path to enter the Tapovan meadow, you are greeted with
the most spectacular view of Mount Shivling, rising
like a great deity before you and inspiring awe. Meru,
Manda, the the Bhagirathi sister peaks also dominate
your view. Gazing down proudly at your ascent,
you can see Gangotri glacier. Overnight camp.
DAY 12: TREK
TO CHIRBASA. Approx. 5/6 hours.
Rise early, exit
from your canvass kingdom, and you will be rewarded
with a spectacular panoramic setting. Watch the sunrise
on the surrounding 6000m peaks. Shivling is undoubtedly
the star of the show, commanding instant attention as
it soars dramatically into the sky, dwarfing its neighbours.
Today you will retrace your steps to Chirbasa. A steep
descent down to the glacier is followed by a rocky traverse
of the glacier. Continue your gradual descent to Chirbasa
where you will camp for the night in the birch trees
grove.
DAY 13: TREK TO GANGOTRI.
DRIVE TO UTTARKASHI.
Retrace your
steps from Chirbasa to Malla (3 hours approx.). Drive
to Uttarkashi (approx. 5/6 hours). Uttarkashi is an
attractive small town situated on the right bank of
Bhagirathi at an altitude of about 4,964ft/1,550m. The
temples and ghats have names almost identical to those
in Varanasi, a historical city in the Indian plains.
The most important temple dedicated to Shiva is known
as Vishwanath Mandir, where stands a magnificent Trishul
(trident), one meter in circumference and made of copper.
It supports a trident four meters long. Each prong is
about two metres.
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